Road
Toward Maturation
by
Delivered to
The
May 15, 2000
By the mid 1930's all of the land along the boulevard was occupied; by typical
three flat apartment buildings, a few multiple apartment structures, a large
Lutheran Church and Jewish Temple, and opulent two or three storied single
family homes, with mansion-like proportions set on oversized lots. Those living
in the neighborhood surrounding
Not having the experience as a two year old in pre-schooling sessions, or
nursery school learning the intricacies of finger painting and play dough, or
rough housing in some summer camp, or even kindergarten, entering the first
grade was the initial experience for many of us in a break from total reliance
on the family. Surprisingly, friendships were easily formed, first at recess
time and later at some spontaneous after school play, usually on the boulevard
parkway. By the time of the third grade, an informal group evolved; beside
myself, some six or seven others were around most of the time. All lived on or
within two blocks of the boulevard, either in a three flat or larger apartment
building, with the exception of Bobby, who lived in one of the big houses. We
all figured that Bobby's father must be rich, but we never asked since it was
more important that he could pitch or catch a football or whatever we were doing
as a team, since we were totally immersed in sports. The others, besides
myself, included Freddie, Oscar, Davey, Jerry, Eugene, and Erwin. Freddie was
the unofficial "leader" of the pack, or gang as we called ourselves,
for several important reasons; first, he was bigger than any of the others,
maybe a year or more older, (some of us thought that he had been held back at
the first or second grade at another school, since he had come to Yates only in
the past year), stronger and a better athlete than any of us, and mysterious
since he never mentioned his family. No one ever did ask him how old he was.
Davey was my best friend, but not only because his father owned the
neighborhood bakery on
Whenever there were enough players for a baseball game it took place on one of
the neighborhood streets or on the concrete schoolyard. The parkway was too
narrow, and no matter what the configuration the outfield would either be
inside the front door of the church or onto the boulevard. But with a baseball
in hand, all sorts of games were devised, always within a competitive mode.
Once the baseball season ended, a football appeared, and with the given
position of trees and articles of clothing the parkway was transformed into a
field complete with yard markers, out of bounds lines, and goals. Only the goal
posts were missing. The hearty group soon found that ordinary touch football
was too tame, and the rules were changed to two hand touch which provided for
significantly more body contact, with an excuse to throw the carrier forcefully
to the ground. Having passed that barrier, the game of tackle evolved which
produced a variety of fortunately, non-life endangering anatomical changes such
as black eyes, welts, and bruises which required some fanciful explanations
once we got home. Even with his physical impairment, Four Eyes was not excluded
from participating in the rougher version since he was not fleet afoot, and in
the few instances when he had the ball, he could gently be eased onto the
ground. We even went so far, but just once, to allow him to score a touchdown.
The boulevard parkway remained as the congregating spot, and when there were
just two or three a game of catch could go on for an hour or more interspersed
with a profound discussion of the details of Chicago Cub statistics, strategies
of a given game, and individual accomplishments. Each had a favorite player
without whom the team would fall into a dismal slump, never to recover. Here,
at age eleven or twelve, when I would throw as far as I could to Oscar down the
parkway, it was actually a throw from KiKi Cuyler to second base, and his would
return as a fast ball from Lon Warneke. But when more of the gang was around,
and it was early spring on a Saturday afternoon, and baseball filled our
thinking processes, we would grab a ball and a couple of bats and walk south
the three blocks to
The entrance to the park at North Avenue was, to all appearances, guarded by a
majestic statue of the Polish general and patriot, Kosciuszko (whose name none
of us could pronounce), sitting defiantly on his horse. Just inside the park
there lay a large meadow, bare excepting for two baseball diamonds and the
tennis courts on its western border. There were no organized activities for our
age group and no adults were present, so we solved our own problems such as
they were. Participants in a softball baseball game depended on who was there,
but often we added to our nucleus and faced a group who lived on the other side
of the park, the
My own moment of glory occurred one day when I rounded third base in the ninth
inning with the potential winning run in a closely contested game. Choosing to
ram headlong into the catcher rather than sliding resulted in his dropping the
ball, our team winning the game and my ending up with a bloody nose. Running
home hoping that the bleeding, which was my badge of honor, would not
completely stop, I was crushed that my mother was far more concerned with my
physical well being rather than with my major heroics. Baseball progressed from
softball to fast pitching hard ball, and since I was the classic good field no
hit model, it became pure fantasy for me to continue envisioning myself, as I
was dropping off to sleep, as the perennial shortstop of the Chicago Cubs.
Our journeys down the boulevard to the park were almost exclusively sports
driven; primarily baseball and football, either playing it or on occasion
watching an organized adult contest. We rarely took a leisurely stroll through
the rose gardens, crossing "
There were opportunities for many activities within in the park fieldhouse
itself, chief of which were the basketball courts, affording us the chance to
hone our rudimentary skills and to pick up impromptu games easily. I noticed
that often, both before and after our stint on the courts, when the weather was
tolerable, two old men were playing chess on a stone table near the outside
railing. They sat for hours barely saying a word, oblivious to the silent
observer who slowly absorbed some of the nuances of the game. One day only one
was there, and he asked me if I would like to play. His name was Mr. Rosen, and
he taught me the game in our frequent meetings over the course of several
weeks. We did not play in silence since I had to be tutored in strategic moves,
and almost always there was time to talk about my school subjects; English,
geography, and especially history. One day, he asked where the name "
Throughout the 1860's numerous groups in the fast growing population, composed
of property owners, real estate developers, city planners, purely civic minded
citizens, and others were widely advocating the need for public parks within
the city and the outlying territory, envisioning a series of parks with
connecting boulevards. Three groups were in the forefront of this drive, namely
representatives from the North, West, and South sides of the city. Finally, in
February of 1869, the State legislature by separate Acts, established three
major park systems in the
In October '69, the majority of residents surrounding the proposed site of the
Friedrich Wilhelm Karl Heinrich Alexander von Humboldt was born in
By this time, Humboldt had decided that his goal in life was that of scientific
exploration, and he undertook, on his own, a program to gain a thorough
knowledge of the systems of geodetic, meteorological, and geomagnetic
measurements. Moreover, since both parents were now dead and he was financially
secure, he would lead his own expedition, and could do so at his own expense.
He asked Aime Bonpland, a young French medical doctor and botanist, whom he had
met in Paris, to join him. Humboldt had had for years the desire to explore the
tropics, and with this in mind the two first traveled to Spain, where the Saxon
minister at Madrid procured for them an interview with King Charles IV. This
resulted in the King's granting permission for them to visit the Spanish
colonies in Central and South America, and to make investigations of everything
that might lead to the advancement of science. These colonies were at that time
accessible only to Spanish officials and the Roman Catholic mission. Such
extensive privileges had never before been granted to any traveler.
David McCullough has exquisitely detailed the exploration of Humboldt and
Bonpland to Spanish America in his book, Brave Companions. After having
purchased in Paris some forty of the finest scientific instruments of the day,
the two set sail aboard a Spanish frigate, arriving off the coast of Venezuela
in July 1799, to start an extraordinary expedition that would last five years.
For three months, according to McCullough's account, they explored and mapped
the coastal plains while collecting some sixteen hundred plants, identifying
six hundred new species. Next they paddled up the Apure river to its confluence
with the Orinoco and then via the Rio Negro, discovering and documenting for
the first time the connection between the Orinoco and the Amazon. The seventy
five day round trip in open boat and canoe was undertaken in the most severe
conditions; stifling humidity, continual attacks by hordes of mosquitoes, and
torrential rains which ultimately destroyed most of their provisions, resulting
in their subsisting on bananas, ants, an occasional fried monkey, or ground up
wild cacao beans and river water.
After a short trip to Cuba where samples of the plants, rocks, fishes,
reptiles, and skins of animals were stored, the two returned to South America,
spending the next two years in Columbia, Ecuador, and Peru. Crossing and
recrossing the Andes taking measurements of mountains and valleys, and
observing vegetation on the slopes prompted one biographer of Humboldt to
write: "He began to see what nobody had understood clearly before him;
that life's forms and their grouping with one another are conditioned by
physical factors in their environment, that atmospheric and geologic conditions
need to be known if we are to learn the meaning behind organic life." It
was during this period that the two explorers set out to climb Chimborazo, the
snow capped extinct volcano standing at 20,561 feet, the highest mountain in
Ecuador. Without the help of any modern mountaineering equipment, ropes,
crampons, or oxygen supply, the two were finally stopped by an impassable
ravine at 19,286 feet, higher than anyone had been before. This record would
last for thirty years, and it would be another seventy-eight years before the
peak of Chimborazo would be conquered.
In December of 1802, they sailed for Mexico, and skirting the shores of Peru,
Humboldt took detailed temperature readings and soundings of the north flowing
current of the Pacific, which subsequently were the basis for naming this the
Humboldt Current. After his stay and exploration in Mexico, Humboldt sailed for
Havana, retrieved his stored collections, and then embarked for the United
States. There, he spent several days with President Jefferson, and subsequently
returned to Europe, where he wrote extensively culminating in the work which
would involve the last twenty five years of his life: Cosmos. McCullough
writes: "The final work, the grand summing up, was something called
Cosmos. It was to contain all Humboldt knew of art, nature, history, all
branches of science portraying as never before the grand harmonies of the Earth
and universe. He wished to convey the excitement of science to the intelligent
nonscientific reader." He completed four volumes, and was working on the
fifth and final volume when he died on May 6, 1859, in his ninetieth year.
Humboldt Park was actually designated as such some two weeks before the
committee working on an outline for the three parks and connecting boulevards
reported their recommendations to the full Board of Commissioners; these were
formally adopted on the day of presentation, and no substantial changes have
ever been made in the original outlines. South Park was subsequently named
Douglas Park and later middle Park became Garfield Park. Early 1870 marked the
purchase of three-fifths of the land for Humboldt Park, and the remainder was
acquired the following year. The park boundaries included a four square block
from North Avenue to Division Street on the south, from Kedzie Avenue on the
west, to California Avenue on the east. A two square block extended on the
southwest encompassing Kedzie and Sacramento Avenues to Augusta Boulevard. The
grounds were described as: "a flat treeless, uninviting prairie, an
unbounded expanse of bleak plain destitute of vegetation, except for low
prairie herbage and a distant line of spindly young trees, hardly more sylvan
in appearance than telegraph poles. In the foreground were stagnant pools of
water and an unfenced, upgraded prairie trail; barren, lone, and desolate as
could well be conceived."
It fell upon the shoulders of the West Park Commissioners to appoint the
individual who would transform this barren land into a scenic park. At that
time Frederick Olmsted was the foremost landscape architect in the United
States, championing the cause of naturalistic design. He and his partner, Calvin
Vaux had, over the course of two years, completed the design of Central Park in
New York, leading to its opening in 1859. Their efforts, spurred on by the
concept that parks would have a positive public health advantage for urban
inhabitants and have a civilizing benefit for the under privileged, created as
reported by Grese in his book, Jens Jensen, "central meadow spaces
with network of roads and looped pathways at the perimeter to show how rural
scenery could be adapted to a park in an otherwise urban context."
Olmsted's philosophy carried on by many that followed him included: "Type
of scenery to be preserved as created ought to be that which is developed
naturally from the local circumstances in each case. Smooth hollows of good
soil hint at an open parkland scenery. Swamps and abundant water supply suggest
ponds, pools, or lagoons."
In 1870, the Commissioners appointed William Le Baron Jenney as chief engineer
and architect with the responsibility of designing the entire West Park system.
Jenney was a friend and colleague of Olmsted, having collaborated with him two
years earlier in the planning along with architectural designs of Riverside,
Illinois, the first planned community in the United States, proposing
essentially a rural village, with winding streets and parks, and open spaces
along the DesPlaines river. It is known that Jenney wrote Olmsted seeking
advice on the design for the West Parks.
Jenney initially felt little inspiration from the unimproved sites, asserting
that they were not offering a single suggestion for the design of the future
park, nor possessing a single tree worthy of preservation. However, his plans
for transforming this flat, swampy site into a naturalistic landscape were
completed in the year following his appointment. His original plan called for a
large picturesque lake with islands and peninsulas covering 2/3 of the park,
along with a formal entrance which was linked by a long esplanade to a terrace
housing a music pavilion. Jenny's original plan was never fully carried out.
When the park was officially opened in 1877, only its eastern 80 acres had been
improved; the formal entrance, the entire outer perimeter drive, and the
eastern portion of the lake with its two islands were developed in accordance
with his plan. An artesian well had already been built, with a proper sewer
system to provide surface drainage, as well as a small boathouse whose landing
launched eight row boats onto the lagoon.
The opening of the park was greeted with great enthusiasm, and was well patronized
throughout the year. Jenney remained in his position for three years and
thereafter continued in a consultant capacity until the appointment of Oscar F.
Dubuis as West Park Commission Engineer in 1877. A summary of the essentials of
the park in 1881 included in part: total area 200+ acres, with improved areas
of 95 acres; trees and shrubs planted, 43,470; earth excavated, 28,000 cubic
yards; artesian well 1,155 feet deep; 10,000 linear feet of graveled driveways;
12,690 feet of graveled walks; lagoon 13 acres in extent; a Pavilion Building;
and five greenhouses. Into the early 1890's, Dubuis planned additional
improvements, particularly for the unimplemented sections of the park. One of
his major efforts was the plan which would have extended the lake by as
additional 39 acres, but under his supervision only a 4 acre portion of the new
lake was excavated, and further improvements progressed very slowly. It was
during this time that Jens Jensen came into the realm of Humboldt Park.
Jensen's childhood and early adult life, including his education, travels, and
military experiences, are well documented in Grese's Jens Jensen, and Eaton's
Landscape Artist in America. He emigrated from Denmark in 1884 at the age of 24
with his fiancee, leaving his family who refused to sanction his marriage to
one whose family was of a lower social position. They moved from Florida to
Iowa, and finally settled in Chicago in 1886, residing in the Scandinavian
community around Humboldt Park. He found a job of gardener with the West Park
commission, taking on the most menial of chores. In order to familiarize
himself with and understand the indigenous plants of the locale, he and his
family took frequent trips to the open areas near Chicago, and as well found
winter nursery work with a Swedish landscape gardener. Two years after starting
his labors in the large parks, Jensen, now the foreman of the small Union Park,
planted in one of its corners the American Garden, a collection of mostly
native perennials, marking the first of his major public landscape designs. The
stock for this garden had been gathered with a team and wagon, since nurserymen
had never before been asked to supply such materials. To his great satisfaction
the transplants flourished, the garden became very popular, and remained in the
park through the 1890's.
Jensen continued to work under Dubuis until the latter was terminated in 1893,
and then under his successor who served only until '95. During this period the
West Park Commission was severely in debt, very few improvements took place,
and Humboldt Park was greatly in need of repairs maintenance. In spite of this,
two pieces of sculpture were donated by members of the community and placed in
the park. One, erected in 1893, honored Fritz Reuter, the noted German
novelist. The other was that of Alexander von Humboldt, erected in 1892. A gift
of Mr. F.J. Dewes, (who like Humboldt was born in Prussia) this statue, cast in
Germany, was described as a masterpiece of Felix Goerling. Standing 10 feet
high and in bronze, it depicted Humboldt in the position of lecturing. In the
half raised right hand he held a flower, while the left, in which is clasped a
book representing Cosmos, rested upon a tree trunk that stood by his side. At
his feet, besides an iguana, a globe was partially visible.
The ceremony of the unveiling of the statue was conducted under the auspices of
the German Press Club of Chicago. Its committee included Edward Uihlein,
great-grandfather of John Notz, and its Chief Marshal was Henry Greenebaum, one
of the original West Park Commissioners. The statue was placed to the south of
the large lagoon and boat house, originally facing east, but was later moved
facing west at the roadway which eventually was to become Humboldt Drive, which
bisected the park in a north to south direction. Uihlein reluctantly accepted
the appointment urged upon him by Governor Altgeld in 1894 to become a
Commissioner of the West Park System. His reluctance was no doubt based on, at
least in part, the history of the commission as described in a reference
prepared by the Chicago Park district: "the personnel of the Board,
changing from time to time, experienced difficulties in securing funds to carry
on the extensive programs of parks and boulevards, and in addition there were legal,
taxing and construction problems arising constantly, so that the position of
the Commissioner while considered a high honor in local circles proved no
enviable position from the standpoint of responsibility and duties to be
executed." All of this, plus the constraints of the political system, both
state and local. Even so, Uihlein, as the Board member in charge of
improvements was able to accomplish much in two years. His reward when Governor
Tanner was elected in 1896, was his dismissal along with all other members of
the Board.
Meanwhile, Jensen was moving up the ranks, reaching the position of
Superintendent of Humboldt Park in 1895. Subsequent to the issuance of a bond
in that year, the major improvement was the construction of a receptory building
in the south-east corner of the park; this receiving place included stables,
offices, workshops, and storage areas. In all likelihood, Jensen designed the
surrounding landscape which included a small lily pond. As Superintendent of
the park, Jensen had to deal almost on a daily basis, with the unbelievable
corruption of municipal politics. Ward bosses of the city, dependent on the
votes of recently arrived immigrants, used the parks and other city departments
as an avenue to secure jobs for the numerous unskilled laborers. Eaton
describes this as a kind of a cow which could be milked at the expense of the
public at large. More distressing was the graft resulting in contractors
providing cheaper materials than specifications called for as well as shoddy workmanship,
or providers delivering short weights of supplies to the park while charging
for full weights. In the latter category, Jensen was not rewarded for exposing
the coal grafters. Instead, he was summarily fired in 1900.
Initially, Jensen experienced a period of financial struggle, but remaining
with his family in their home on Augusta Boulevard, he turned to the private
practice of landscape gardening. He spent much of his spare time botanizing in
nature, becoming even more familiar with Midwestern plants; in 1902 Mayor
Carter Harrison appointed him to the Special Parks Commission, a quasi public
group who were concerned with the urban development of areas at the expense of
natural expanses in and around the city. In 1904, he and the architect Dwight
Perkins published recommendations that would form the basis of the future
forest preserve districts. In 1905, at the insistence of Govenor Dureen as well
as that of the new Chairman of the Commisioners Bernard Eckhart, Jensen was
persuaded to return to the parks, now as Superintendent and Landscape Architect
of all of the West Parks.
In that same year, the voters approved $2 million in bonds to refurbish and
extend the parks. Jensen found Humboldt Park to be in a dilapidated condition;
the entire western portion was essentially bare land, the lagoons had no
official edge, lacking any plantings on its borders, and in many areas in place
of lawns there was just dirt. Now having the freedom to hire competent help, he
had the opportunity to explore both formal and informal design elements using
both exotic and native plants, with the intent primarily to produce a
naturalistic setting. After demolishing the deteriorating small greenhouse, he
set out to create the revolutionary concept of a waterway that would look like
a natural river coursing through a prairie. First, after adding a narrow
extension to the south west portion of the "new lake" which had been
developed under Dubuis, he designed hidden water sources which supplied two
rocky brooks that fed the river and adjoining existing lagoon. The resulting
waterway was1,650 feet long, with a width varying from 52 to108 feet; its
branches had several cascades with rock formations resembling those of the Rock
river. Only native plantings adorned the river- reeds and marsh plants at the
edges, with a perennial garden and surrounding masses of wildflowers.
Juxtaposed to the naturalistic river landscape, Jensen developed a formal rose
garden which is described in detail in the listing of Humboldt Park for
inclusion in the National Register of Historic Places. The garden, officially
opened in 1908; at its east entrance Hugh Garden of the firm of Schmidt, Garden
and Martin placed two large ornamental lanterns designed in the prairie style.
Recessed to the west of the lanterns were a pair of bronze cast bison, which
flanked the entrance stairs. Slightly north of the statue of Fritz Reuter, on
the East Side of Humboldt Drive facing the rose garden, Jensen placed an open,
rectilinear Music Court.
The music court formed the southern border of what would become the most
significant building in the park; with Jens Jensen as its landscape designer,
Hugh Garden built the Humboldt Park Refectory and Boat Landing (Boathouse
Pavilion) in 1907 which has been described as: " a building conveying a
powerful visual presence while, simultaneously, blending unobtrusively into a
naturalistic setting;" this written by the staff of the city's Department
of Planning and Development in requesting designation of the Boathouse as a Chicago
Landmark. Below the pavilion, at water level, the boathouse accommodated the
storage and rental of rowboats in the summer, and served as a warming room and
changing facilities for skaters in the winter. The most striking feature of the
structure were the three semicircular arches each 30 feet wide which defined
the architectural character of the pavilion's central structure. In addition to
their strong visual appeal, the arches framed dramatic vistas of the park,
whether viewed from the inside of the shelter or, through it, from outside the
shelter. Just a few years ago, the Boathouse was selected as a Chicago
Landmark, designating it as one of the most important buildings in all Chicago
parks.
Jensen remained with the Park System until 1920 when his plans for a
"Greater West Park system conflicted with the wishes of the Board of
Commissioners. Later he was to write: "Parks are a necessity for the
cultivating and preserving a love of nature. They are the seats of learning for
the average city-bred being, and their influence is plainly visible in streets
and pretty home surroundings. Parks are practical schools of horticulture, and
the bone and sinew of art out-of-doors. They are necessary for the self
preservation of those who by free will or through forced circumstances have
made their homes in a large city."
One day in late Fall of 1936, the students of the 8th grade of Richard Yates
School, anxiously awaiting their graduation the following February, were
notified of the high school to which each was being assigned, based on
residential boundaries. Most of my friends, I soon learned, would be going to
Roosevelt rather than Tuley, to which I was headed. Besides the imminent loss
of my neighborhood pals, I dreaded the thought of daily association with the Division
Street gang , all of whom would be at Tuley. Moping around in the schoolyard
that afternoon, I decided walk down my road, Humboldt Boulevard, to the park.
"Where are you going?," someone asked in a friendly voice. I turned,
and to my surprise it was my classmate, Gracie, who suggested that she join me.
As we started, I consciously assessed myself; a shy, skinny, five foot one
inch, unimpressively skilled athlete thirteen years old, who seemed years away
needing to shave. We talked all the way to the park about my high school
problem and disappointment until we stopped at the edge of the lagoon, looking
at the boathouse with the imposing figure of von Humboldt just beyond. The sun,
low in the autumn sky, cast its brilliance through the arches of the boathouse
onto the still water. I leaned toward Gracie who did not move except to turn
full face toward me. I kissed her on the lips, but just barely. Even so, I
immediately, knew the truth of that which had been talked about in the evenings
on the street corner: it wasn't like kissing your sister.
Gracie moved back, stared at our peaceful setting, and said quietly: "I
want you to go to Roosevelt, and you can get a permit to change."
"How do I do that?" I asked unbelievably.
"Simple, just go to your alderman." I wasn't sure as to how that
would solve my problem, but what a fantastic, worldly girl, I thought.
Walking back along the boulevard, intermittently holding hands and suppressing
the urge to loudly proclaim my good fortune, I felt worldly myself. My mother
grasped the reasons, at least those which I told her, for seeking a change in
schools, and seemed to understand the aldermanic mechanics for achieving our
goals. The alderman met us on the night he set aside to see his constituents
(all of whom were seeking a favor of one sort or another), and he quickly
approved a permit that very night for me to attend Roosevelt, after my mother
vowed complete allegiance from her and the rest of the family to the Democratic
Party.
For me, the innermost joy at being at Roosevelt was short lived. Gracie very
soon was spending all of her time outside of class with a tall, muscular,
football player, whom I was sure, shaved. If I had known the saying, I would
have said it: "That's life, I guess."
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